‘In the Path of the Pilgrims’

Episode Four

Parador Villafranca del Bierzo; this was one of those stops we somehow didn’t photograph, it was decorated in the Castilian style. As the village was one of the overnight stops used by the pilgrims we made this one of our stops – but in great comfort. From the village there are wonderful views of the Ancares mountain range but we were enchanted by the storks nesting in the village. And we were delighted that we had a stork nesting right outside our bedroom window. Again the restaurant had a splendid menu including trout and a fantastic veal stew. It has been closed for the summer but is due to reopen fully refurbished by the end of November.

Parador ‘Hostel San Marcos’ Leon.

This was probable the best Parador stop. Not on our itinerary but we sort of wandered into it! was originally a ‘monastery’ of the twelfth century giving lodgings to the pilgrims. It was rebuilt in the sixteenth century and is now a Parador, it was great and is one of the most beautiful Renaissance buildings in Spain. The restaurant was very, very good.

'Matilda’ under police escort was driven by a very obliging doorman to the garages... hilarious.

All the local sights were wonderful. And the stained glass windows in the Cathedral magnificent.

Outside the Casa Botines in Leon is the Guadi Bench with one seated gentleman and pigeon, when we were there it was two gentlemen as can be seen in the photo.

The last stop in Spain was the Parador ‘Santa Domingo de la Calzada.

The best Parador of all for us, and we have repeated our visit to this. We always ask for room number eight. Is it special – no but we like it, so we have the same room each time. The Parador receptionists always seems to be happy that we want this particular room; possibly it was the clock tower by the window where the bell rings on the hour and quarter hour very loudly.

And then back through France to -

Monet’s Gardens at Giverny – but that’s another blog!

In the Path of the Pilgrims

Episode Three

So we continue along our route to Santiago de Compostela.; and our visits to the Paradores. May I digress? I have said the Paradores are a treat to be sampled and I can only recommend that you click onto their website if intending to holiday in Spain http://www.paradores-spain.com you can see the prices and work it out for yourself in each case.On this stage of our journey we stayed first at the

Parador Vilaba; A medieval Galician tower which was the main focal point of the town and the principle remaining part of the building, all the rest has been restored though there are some rooms in the tower. The decor and restoration is all in a medieval style, and the modern extensions had excellent bedrooms and dining rooms. The menu hadsome specialities of the region. I tried the cooked pork with turnip tops – I can’t say I would recommend it! But breakfast in all the Paradores is fantastic.

Lugo; This was a quick visit to see the walls and Cathedral of Lugo but we only stayed for tapas and then back to Vilaba - and then onwards.

‘Hostel dos Reis Catolicos Santiago de Compostela’ The Parador was constructed as a ‘Hospital Real’ to shelter the pilgrims in 1499 and is now considered to be the oldest hotel in the world, always a debateable point.It certainly lived up to its five star rating, though there was some discussion amongst the porters as to who should have the honour of taking our very old car to the garage. Originally the Parador was a Royal Hospital and gave lodgings to the pilgrims.Now it is very luxurious, that’s if you fancy having golden wash basins in your on-suite bathroom.
And it has very beautiful cloisters leading onto wonderful bedrooms. The Galician food served in the restaurants was sheer heaven. All this if you are over fifty-five years of age has a 30% discount.

Santiago de Compostela Cathedral; The main purpose of the ‘Peregrinos’ pilgrims walk is to reach the Cathedral and visit the Silver Urn with the remains of St James the Apostle.
The Cathedral was truly magnificent and down below in the crypt were the remains of St James. I am always a little suspicious of the authenticity of some of the religious relics, still no harm done, and for many it has great significance.For those interested in adventure books, Bernard Cornwell chose this Cathedral as the settings for a battle in one of his ‘Richard Sharpe’ books.

Parador de Tui; This is what you might call a diversion of some importance. The Parador is a typical manor house, the bedrooms are furnished in a rustic style. The menu in the restaurant is varied – Lamprey – eels - fillet steak, and even some gluten free dishes, you are spoilt for choice. But for us it was the call of the shellfish, the coast line is very well known for its shellfish,

and the village of A Guarda is the best of the lot. Somebody got it right, mussel followed by scallops, and then ‘lobster’, a meal to be recalled again and again. Margaret is always happy to carefully dissect a lobster, not missing any of it.

Monte de Santa Tecla is just outside Tui and the path to the top is lined with crosses.
to do with the pilgrims walk but worth a visit.. The remains of a Celtic settlement of approximately 100 dwellings is on the hilltop above A Guarda.

Portugal; a visit to Viana do Castlo, it was a case of in and out just to say we had visited Portugal – yes we will be going back fairly soon. The bridge from Spain to Portugal was built by Gustav Eiffel of Eiffel Tower (Paris) fame; the bridge is just outside Tui.

A wonderful visit was made in ‘Santiago de Compostela’ but there is more to come.

Next Episode ‘Parador ‘Hostel San Marcos’ Leon’