Tree Tops Lodge - Kenya

I did say about two years ago I would blog about Treetops, well now I will.

 It was the summer of 1978 and my wife’s birthday was a couple days earlier when we finally set out for the Aberdare National Park in Kenya. We were to spend the night of June the fifteenth at the lodge. The one that Princess Elizabeth had stayed in 1952 was burned down by the Mau Mau in 1954 but a new one had been built. The lodge is actually built in the treetops near the same waterhole where the original one had been. All authentic stuff, but first we stopped at the Outspan Hotel which was nearby and had tea and scones on the terrace looking out onto the lawns – all very civilised – no lions attacking us – actually we never saw any lions during the visit

Eventually we went to the ‘Treetop’s Lodge’ well quite near to the ‘Lodge’ and here we met ‘White Hunter’.  Well that was how he was introduced. Seemed a nice old boy carrying a rifle – just the one ‘White Hunter’ and I did think considering we were in wild animal territory and were crossing the waterhole clearing, which already had some visitors, that we should have had more ‘White Hunters’, he kept saying keep together, and I for one didn’t challenge the suggestion. The ‘Lodge’ was impressive - high up in the trees with wooden steps/stairs to which we hurriedly gained access avoiding the animals that were looking at us and quickly went up to the ‘Lodge’ watched over by our escort! Then we were shown to our bedrooms. Now I’m quite a big man and these were very small rooms with a small window which I promptly opened – and my wife just as promptly closed. ‘There are wild animals out there and some can climb!’ she was aware of our situation more than me. We settled in and then went for a walk about – which meant looking at the observation lounge and the roof terrace.

 By this time our visitors were arriving for the ‘salt lick’ and water hole, a selection of Buffalo and Rhino and others yet to be identified. We looked down and watched - tea was being served on the roof terrace so went up and helped ourselves to sandwiches and tea. Now my wife and I have different versions of what happened next – a troop of baboons came through the trees to join us for tea. I quickly went down the stairs to the lower floor and checked that it was clear for everybody to go below. My wife has a different explanation. I was off without waiting to see what the others were doing and my wife followed behind me, unprotected by her gallant husband who had led the way. To this day she mutters about lifeboats and who will be first in them. The baboons finished the sandwiches and soon had the roof terrace to themselves!

Eventually we were called for dinner in a small and narrow dining room with one long narrow table down the centre, then once seated you were in, and the food was passed up on a trolley in the centre of the table – no room for anyone to serve at table, all very cosy. The menu was very good. Melon followed by soup, then Veal with a variety of vegetables, for desert Linser tart, next Cheese and finally coffee and liquors. It was then time to get seated in the observation lounge.

Now the observation lounge is at a reasonable height but the wild life seemed close enough but we were just high enough. It was the first night when there were no elephants or lions. We could hear the elephants screaming in the distance but this was be the first night for six weeks when they didn’t come to the water hole. However there was plenty to see and a display was put on by Rhino – Buffalo – Water Buck who performed with considerable noise and action stamping and snorting. Was that all we saw. No, there was Bush Buck – Wart Hog grunting in the clearing along with the Giant Forest Hog – Genet Cat – White Tailed Mongoose – Bush Babies – African Hare, and of course Baboons – and all were close – yes very close. We spent most of the night watching and then were first up in the morning (6:30 am). White Hunter was also up early and was watching with us. My wife pointed to a very small antelope near the edge of the clearing ‘What’s that one?’ White Hunter became interested ‘Looks like you are in luck, it’s a Red Forest Duiker, not often you see them, must be because no one is about’ We continued watching for some time but we were still first in for breakfast.. Did we see plenty of wild life? It was amazing all night long the waterhole had been a scene of great activity, not just the odd animal but dozens all night long. We did go to other waterholes but none were as impressive as Treetops.

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